From 15,000 Feet

1/22/10

Waking up the day after the race, we kinda just lounged around the room for a while. I looked outside from our room and saw that it was another beautiful day. A great day to die I thought, maybe I should jump out of a plane. So, we went to the kitchen, made some food, and then I walked, slowly, to front desk to see if there was still any skydive trips available. The girl at reception called over to “Skydive Wanaka” and let me know they had one spot left if I wanted it. She confirmed it, charged me, and told me they would be by in ten minutes to pick me up! SHIT! I ran upstairs to tell trev he had ten minutes to get ready, and called my dad to tell him I was jumping out of a plane. That was it, my ride showed up and it was time to go.


Pulling up to the drop zone I was so nervous, but extremely stoked. Filled out my paper work which included signing something like twelve times something about death/serious injury, hopped on the scale, was given what they called the “skanky shoes”,


because I didn’t wear proper shoes, was handed my jumpsuit and told to suit up and get ready to go! A few minutes later I met my jump master, Derek, and was taking off.



The ride up was pretty exhilarating. As we passed through the clouds, Derek said, “So this is about 4,000 feet. We’ll pull the cord around here.” Then at 7,500, “okay, we’re about half way there.” Last minute safety check, lean me out the door, and we’re off! A couple back flips, flatten out and free fall for a minute. A full minute! Out on the horizon were beautiful snowcapped mountains, jutting out of the most beautiful blue-green lakes, that were fed by twisting rivers of the same amazing color. Looking down, nothing but clouds and the Earth rushing towards me. We were falling for so long that I one point I started to get nervous it was too long, but then something that is hard to describe. I strange peace came over me. I remember saying to myself, “Stop worrying and enjoy the ride. There is nothing you can do at this point, you’re either going to make it, or not.” A very strange feeling to say the least, but so powerful. He pulled the cord as we passed the clouds and then, silence. Sitting under the canopy was remarkable. Now, falling slowly and gently we took in all the beauty surrounding us. He pointed out mountains, rivers, national parks, and everything else around us. Spectacular! He asked if I wanted to do some spins, which we did and then headed towards the landing patch.


One last set of spins real close to the ground, because as he said, “… it’s more exciting that way.”, and we were settling in for a perfect stand up landing.














Walking off the field I had the biggest smile I could possibly smile absolutely plastered to my face. I think I was high for two days!



We came back to the hostel and went to the room to relax, but I had to go rent a kayak for an hour to get some of the adrenaline and energy out of my system. This was by far, one of the best experiences of my life.

Trevor "Ironman" Young

1/22/10
I am now sitting in a hostel in Auckland, a pretty busy city on the North Island of New Zealand. I haven’t really had time to keep the blog updated as I have been spending a lot of time updating the other posts and uploading and editing the pictures. I hope you’re all enjoying my narcissism so far!

Had some really fantastic days since my last posts. The weather has finally been nice and travelling has been great. Stayed in Wanaka for a week and made some really great friends. Spent most of the day on the 15th just taking it easy as Trev had the Ironman Challenge on the 16th. We went to the store and got some things to make dinner for us and one of the friends we made, Sabrina from Canada. It was a great meal. Penne with chicken that I made and some garlic bread and a salad prepared by Sabrina and Trev. After dinner Trev and I just took it easy and played some cards so he could rest up for the race. What a cool experience that was. Up at 6:00am to walk to the lake and get ready for the first leg of the Challenge, a swim in the 50 degree waters of Lake Wanaka.











I watched from the beach as trev completed the first lap, one and a half miles, in forty minutes,


and then the second and final lap in forty minutes as well.
From there he transitioned to the bike for the 110 mile ride.












Before the race we discussed that the bike leg should take him between five and six hours. I went to the room took a nap, had a shower, and was back to the race sight to make sure he transitioned from the bike to the run. As six hours passed I was starting to get a little nervous… then six and a half, then seven. Finally at seven and a half hours he made it to the transition tent. Starting his run, passing by me, I asked, “How you feeling?” to which he replied with an exhausted look on his face, “the worst decision of my life!”.


Kind of worried that he might not finish, I wished him luck and cheered him on as he now set out for his marathon 26.2 mile run. I, on the other hand was headed to the pub to grab a sandwich and a beer. I have to note here that race day was the absolute best weather we had experienced yet. Too good actually. For the first time it was sunny and not a cloud in the sky and a scorching temperature of almost 90 degrees. I was complaining as I was sitting at the pub that it was too hot and was dripping sweat, to which Sabrina replied, “Trev’s running a marathon right now and you’re bitching about it being too hot to sit and drink a beer!”


Man, I suck as a person! Anyway, back down to the race site to cheer him on as he completed the first lap of the run. As he passed, having just completed 13.1 miles in two hours and fifteen minutes, he looked great. Much more energy than he had on the bike and at a good pace. Grabbed some water, soaked himself with a sponge and off for the home stretch.















That is if you can really call 13.1 more miles a home stretch. Back to the room to load pictures onto facebook,grab another beer and then back to the finish line. Hanging out on the finish line was so moving and inspirational. It was amazing to see the different expressions on people’s faces as they approached the finish line. Some so excited and smiling, some so exhausted, and relived, and some in absolute pain. One thing they all shared the victory of just finishing. I spotted Trev coming around the corner and ran out to meet him, and to run the last 100 meters or so with him. He was exhausted, cramping, and in pain.



Running alongside him was pretty moving. I remember telling him how proud I was of his accomplishment and thanking him, because had he not done this I most likely would not be on this trip right now. Crossing the finish line, it was over. Fourteen hours, forty minutes, and forty-three seconds.



Needless to say, Trev went back to the room and right to bed. Swearing he was going home, selling his bike, and never doing anything like that again. Waking up the next morning he realized what he had a accomplished and what it meant, and decided that he would do another one. I went back down to the finish line to watch fireworks celebrating the official end of the race.


I’m sure he would’ve loved to stay in bed the entire next day, but I didn’t let that happen… I was going to jump out of a plane and he had to come with me!

if you're planning a vacation, make sure you're one day behind me!

1/14/10
I have to think that we are cursed. Let me recap how the weather has been for this trip. As I have said a few times now it has been mostly raining and windy here in the middle of summer. I want to make sure you really understand how bad it has been. Let me start by saying, if you are ever going to plan a vacation with me it would be best for you to get my itinerary, and make sure to arrive at a place the day that I am leaving or the next day. Let’s start in Sydney. Arriving in Sydney it rained. Clearing as we drove to Wollongong, but starting again as we got settled there. Sunny when we left Wollongong, and continued to be sunny until we reached Newcastle. Rained most of the time we were there, cleared as we were leaving, and poured buckets the entire way back to Sydney. Cleared for the New year’s Eve celebration, but poured again as we reached Bondi. Rained on the way to the airport, but as we left Sydney I could see the skies cleared and it was beautiful. So much so that we got a text from Skye thanking us for leaving. Arriving in Brisbane for a short, very short, almost missing our plane short, layover, was rain. Hoping for better weather in Christchurch, we thought we had found it. Cool, but no rain. We were happy, until the next day of course. Leaving Christchurch and arriving in Franz Josef, it rained for a day straight. When it came time to leave Franz Josef, the skies were blue and the rain was gone. Unfortunately, so were we. Now in Wanaka, guess what… yep, more rain and wind. Deciding to go to Queenstown, we arrived to 40 mph gusts and sideways rain. Rain the entire bus ride from Wanaka to Milford, however clearing long enough for us to cruise the Milford Sound. Awoke the next morning to beautiful sunshine and a gentle breeze, you guessed it, we were leaving. Arriving back in Queenstown, the bus driver said, “…very odd today that it is hotter in Milford than in Queenstown.” Then it began raining again. Heading back to Wanaka, we were told the weather had been beautiful. 29 degrees Celsius and clear. By the time we arrived, cloudy and windy. Woke up today expecting a clear sunny day, it instead rained hard for a few hours, followed by gusty winds again. Needless to say, we have again not done much in Wanaka. Spent the afternoon with a friend we made in Queenstown who is staying here in Wanaka. Enjoyed a barbeque at the hostel, sat and talked for a while, followed by a walk to the lake. Today was a short walk to get lunch, and relaxing in the room for the most part. Trev has a spaghetti dinner with the other athletes tonight and I’ll probably hang around the hostel. I was invited by the locals I met last time we were here to a house party tonight, but I’m not sure I will be going. Here is what the invite consisted of. “NICK! How are you mate? You’re coming to my house tomorrow night for the best party ever! Table tennis, golf, volleyball, and shooting. We have a target range for our 22’s. If you hit the outer ring you drink a beer, the second ring half a beer, third ring a quarter of a beer, and center you get to give a drink!” I’ve always heard drinking and guns don’t mix, let alone drinking games and guns! For now, I’m going to head into town for a walk and see what I will be doing tonight.

Rugby Fun, Peaceful Sound, and Horrible Hike

1/12/09
Next morning we were headed to Queenstown. So very excited, we were going to watch an all day rugby tournament, that was, as we were told, “…an all out piss party!” We were both pretty tired and slept the entire bus ride there to wake up to the worst rain and wind we have seen yet. I swear the sun does not shine in the summer here! Completely disheartened and depressed we went to our hostel and asked if the tournament was still on. The girl at the desk said it was not. To make matters worse it was 12:00 and we couldn’t check in till 1:00. So what do you do in Queenstown, in the middle of summer you ask… a lot of things, unless its pissing down rain like you were in Seattle. So off to the pub for a beer and lunch it was. As we ordered a jug of beer, we noticed some rugby on tv. To our surprise, and delight, it was the tournament we came to see, and to make the situation even better, it was being played directly behind the bar.

Finishing our beers we excitedly heading back to the hostel, checked in, dropped our bags, rented an umbrella, and were rushing to the stadium to watch rugby! Five dollars to get in, eighteen dollars for a six pack, three dollars for a “sausage sizzle”, and sitting on the grass, in the pouring rain, I could not have been happier. To top off how great our seats were for the game, there was also a patch of mud in front of us, which gave us plenty of entertainment as drunken fans slipped down the hill. The best was the guy who worked at our hostel in Wanaka. As he passed by carrying a sausage, his friend carrying a six pack and a sausage was trying to trip him. Instead of being the tripper, he ended up falling himself. Slid down the mud creating an instant yard sale consisting of the beers and his sandwich! With a huge smile and great laughter, he picked up his sandwich and ate it as he collected his beers. Staying till the championship game, it was off to the pub to warm up. Found a cool Irish pub and ran into two Irish girls that were at the same hostel as us in Wanaka. Sitting with them for awhile, talking story, more people from their bus joined. We were now a party of eight.

Talking and laughing for hours, we ended up closing the bar. Walking to the hostel we passed some locals who were racing each other up six flights of stairs and back down. Trev challenged one of them and next thing you know it was Aus, NZ, and USA racing up and down the dimly lit stairs. Trev put up a good fight, but was beaten out. Upset Trev challenged another one and now it was NZ vs USA.










Losing only by a step this time, Trev challenged again, but no one would accept. Turns out the guy from NZ that beat him was one of the players from the tournament that day!
After that, it was lights out and up early for the 5 hour ride to Milford Sound.
As you know, bus rides for us also equal sleep. Waking up a few hours into our ride, I looked out of my window to see that we were crossing the New Zealand Southern Alps. It’s incredible how small and insignificant the world can make you feel sometimes. Getting out of the bus to snap some pictures, I realized there was no point, and that I should just stand there and take it in. Surrounded on all sides by giant mountains that go almost straight up above you. Indescribable. As we continued on, we reached Milford Sound, which is actually a misnomer, it is a fiord. The fiord here was created by the ice from the glaciers carving out a giant valley each time it receded. The result, sheer cliffs that drops from mountain top to sea at an eighty degree angle and somtimes even concave! The waters are calm and the view spectacular.




After our cruise we were dropped at our lodge in Milford, the only lodge in a town with a population of 50, for some food, a glass of wine, cards and bed. Waking up to the most beautiful weather we’ve seen yet, we went for a five hour hike. There should be another word for hikes like this one.









My shoes and socks are still soaked as I sit here on the bus writing this entry. We never even reached the end of the trail. It was supposed to be a 5 hour return, we kept a very good pace, but with all the water, loose rocks, logs, steps up and down, trees to climb through and around, we had to turn back so we did not miss our bus back.
Which brings me to now. Trev passed out in the seat next to me, and me soon to be doing the same. We should arrive in Queenstown by 9pm, stay the night and its back to Wanaka for the next six days as trev prepares for the Ironman. I’m excited to sleep in a private room again with our own shower, toilet, and a tv. It will be nice to relax a little too…

The Gleaming Mountain

1/11/10
Back on a bus, now leaving Queenstown, heading for Milford Sound. The last couple days have been amazing! Word for the trip so far I guess. Arriving in Wanaka was very nice. The town, a very small town, consisting of 3500 people, makes me think that it is very much what a Alaska must be like. A beautiful quiet town. A very brisk, cool, and clean, lakeside town surrounded by beautiful snowcapped mountains. Unfortunately we did not do very much while in Wanaka. The weather once again was horrible. Lots of rain and gusty winds. We spent more time than desired in the room watching tv, and at night I went out to the bar under our hostel to try and meet people. Meet people I did. First night I met a few local guys who were very cool and invited me to go out with them around town. I declined and ended up meeting two very cool girls from Israel. The three of us sat and talked with for a couple of hours. We talked about politics, terrorists, differences and similarities in our countries, cultures, religions, and family values. It was so great to learn about other people and there beliefs. Next night was pretty mellow. Watched a movie in the room and then it was back out for me to meet people. Ran into some English people that we had met in Franz Josef. Had a drink with them and then headed off to a couple other bars to check them out. Found one that we liked called Red Rock, that had live music. Stayed there and danced for a while, went and had a mutton pie, then it was off to bed.

Rainforests and Glaciers

1/8/10
Back on the bus again. The last two days have been great. Arrived in Franz Josef, and immediately loved our lodgings at the Rainforest Retreat. This place was amazing. Cabins, treehouses, dorms, privates, a huge kitchen area, sauna, spa, and a really fun restaurant/bar; all for $30 a night! We had a 4 person cabin that we shared with two guys from Holland. When we asked them their names the first said Guss, but it sounded like Goose and he said that was fine. So from then on we called them Goose and Maverick. Our first night was pretty mellow, took our first shower in 2 days, had a couple beers at “happy hour” made another ham sandwich, ate some ramen, and went to bed. Slept in till almost 11:30 the next day, and then it was off for a day of hiking. On the trail by 1:00 we didn’t return until 6 or so. We started out of town and headed toward the glacier.



So amazing. This is one of the only glaciers in the world that is surrounded by rainforest and almost at sea level. We were literally walking through the rainforest to reach the glacier. It had rained the entire day before so we were told that we could not make it all the way to the glacier. Bummed but determined we hiked as close as they told us we could, about 1000 meters from the base of the glacier. At this barrier we saw that the only thing standing in our way was a fairly good sized stream. We talked about crossing it, and before I knew it Trev’s shoes were off and he was crossing the stream. Naturally I followed.











Two more crossings and about an hour walk and we were standing at the base of the glacier. Walking through this empty valley, surrounded by lush vegetation, flanked by numerous waterfalls, and staring at our destination ahead of us, the Franz Josef glacier… Absolutely incredible!




Shortly we reached this big piece of ice and began taking pictures in futile hope that we could somehow capture the experience on film. We tried hard. Both snapping pictures till our cameras died, but never were able to do the glacier any justice.


Not wanting to leave but knowing we had to, we began our walk back to the cabin and to make some much needed dinner. First real meal in a while, an entire box of pasta, sauce, and steamed broccoli. I guess we needed some nourishment! Took a shower, headed to the bar to play some cards and have a couple beers. Slept like a champ and now heading further south into Wanaka. Six hour bus ride ahead of me. Going to enjoy the scenery. Pause, bus just broke down. Think it might be more than 6 hours…

And So It Begins...

1/6/10
Sitting on a train on my way to the Franz Josef Glacier. Had a rough go of it so far. Anxious everyday, pit in my belly, that feels a lot like my stomach eating my spine, weather just as sad and nervous as me, and everything more expensive than it needs to be. I know Australia has to be better than what I experienced, and I’m excited to go back and find it. Not to sound like I hated it, on the contrary, I had a really good time, just a difficult one. We made a wrong turn at every chance we had, spent more money than we should have, and the weather made it so we didn’t really want to go out and do much. Who would have thought it would rain everyday for a week during the Aussie summer… Not this guy! So, enough of the complaining, let’s talk about what I have done so far. Arriving in Sydney, after a ten and a half hour flight from LA, a four hour layover in Fiji, and a five hour flight to Australia, we decided that we would rent a car and drive to Melbourne instead of flying.










Guess we should have looked at the map a little closer to realize that Melbourne is over 1,000 kilometers (600 miles) from Sydney. Naturally we decided to not go to Melbourne and stop at the next town that seemed worthwhile. Hello Wollongong! Once in Wollongong we walked around to find a place to eat, which surprisingly was hard to do. Finally we decided upon Hogbreath Café. Here we were introduced to what we thought was Australian food. Sixty dollar check for ten or so pieces of calamari, a shitty salad with a few fried potatoes and mushrooms on it, a halfway decent steak sandwich, and two beers. Trev’s tasted better than mine, of course. Insult to injury, the server, Katie, says shortly after meeting us, “…what are you doing in Wollongong then?” To which we replied, what should we do, and she so politely said there was absolutely nothing to do. Pull out the book and start planning now. Decided to stay there and make the best of it. Making the best of it ended up meaning us walking around for an hour to find a hotel, buying groceries to make some sandwiches so we didn’t have to eat another expensive tasteless meal, and to get some beers to take back to the room, or so we thought. Beer in Australia is more expensive than gas. Forty to fifty dollars a case depending if you want shitty three percent beer or shitty five percent beer. Option three, go to the bottle shop and get a 750ml bottle of vodka for thirty five dollars and five dollar club soda, make cocktails in the room and play cards. We chose option three. Trev beat me as usual and got to sleep in the big bed as I knocked out in what I guess is considered a twin. Didn’t matter. We were so tired I slept like a baby and woke up refreshed. Back on the wrong side of the road again, we were off to Newcastle, a town that got our hopes up and offered great beaches, fun bars and pubs, and was an up and coming city in Australia. After almost getting in a head on car accident as Trevor pulled out into oncoming traffic, we managed to make our way through one of the most beautiful scenic roads I have ever seen. Twisting and turning through forest, cliffs, sandy beaches, and national parks, we passed through Sydney for the second time and continued onto our promised land, Newcastle. After four hours of driving, we arrived. Welcome to Newcastle, the armpit of Australia. Pulling up to our hotel the town looked more deserted than Wollongong and much more seedy. Checked in and walked to our room which reminded me of a cruise ship,minus the free food, drinks, and women. We dropped our bags and headed for a walk around town. The wonderful woman at the information center pointed us in the right direction and off we were to have a beer in the harbor. Beers at The Brewery were quite delicious. With many people out and about and a lady slamming her face into the front door as she tripped over her feet and fell to the floor, we thought, this town would be okay. So it was off to the store to get more sandwich stuff, some noodle soups, and more vodka and club soda. This time we found a deal though, two bottles for 70! Yay! Back to the room for a shower, a cocktail, and head out to town. It was back to the harbor for another beer and to see where to go on a Tuesday night. To The Del it was. Upon entering we ran into these two guys that we had met at The Brewery and sat to have a drink with them. Of course, not only were they locals, but they also happened to be the biggest drug dealers in all of Newcastle, the armpit of Australia. Suddenly I felt like I was sitting in the newest episode of locked up abroad waiting for these guys to ask me to smuggle some drugs somewhere. Luckily they didn’t and we ended up having a great time and continued on to The Kent, as The Del was closing. There, with our new friends, we were introduced to many locals. I was talking to one local girl, not realizing her boyfriend was ready to kick my ass, she so subtly asked, “You’ve been in Australia for two days, what the fuck are you doing in Newcastle?!” See a pattern here? Now would be a good time mention that they don’t serve shots or make “double” drinks in Newcastle because there were too many stabbings, fights, and car accidents. You’ll soon find out why I make note of this here. The loophole is that you can order spirits “on the rocks”, and as long as nobody sees you “skull it” you can shoot it. After having a drink or two on the rocks the bar came to a close and we began our walk home, from the bar that we had shared a cab to, and weren’t exactly sure how to get home from. As I began to tell Trev we should go one way and he thought we should go the other I found out firsthand why they don’t serve shots in this town. Luckily for me it was Trev’s shoe that I caught across my face and not a knife or broken bottle. I took a taxi back to the cruise ship and trev wandered the town till he made it back two hours later. We made up in the morning and went for a walk to the beach with cloudy skies and wind. Back to the room for a nap, some food and to head out to Fanny’s, the biggest club in Newcastle. Trev was tired and went back early, I stayed and tried to make friends and also find out that I am 100 percent resistible in Australia. Back to the ship and into bed, for the drive back to Sydney in the morning. Pouring rain and extremely tired, we made it to Sydney, returned the rental car, and checked into our hotel in North Ryde. Time to get ready and head to the city for the big New Year’s Eve celebration. We called Skye, one of our local contacts in Sydney to see what we should do for the night and she said, “…get the fuck outta North Ryde if you wanna have fun!” Down to the harbor it was to experience the turn of the decade with over a million others. Amazing, is only one of the words that cannot describe how awesome of an experience that was.



Back to the hotel around three, and in bed by four. Literally spent the entire next day in bed, went to the gym around seven pm, back in bed by nine, Tylenol pm by ten thirty, and asleep by eleven. Awake and refreshed we headed to Bondi to meet up with Skye. Getting to her house she immediately showed her Aussie hospitality, offered us water, showed us our room, and took us out for some food. Did all of this of course after asking us what the fuck we were did in Wollongong, Newcastle, and North Ryde. She then asked if we loved Aussie food, which I thought was sarcasm, but turned out to be a genuine question. So, off to Greens Café for a delicious fresh, healthy lunch, of Chicken and Quinoa. Next, to the pub for a few hours, then up to the club for one last drink before heading home. As we entered the club I said to Trev, the bouncer looks really familiar, so Trev asked where he was from, to which he replied, Hermosa Beach. Upon further inspection I realized that he was the bouncer that kicked me out of Union Cattle Company one fateful night some time almost two years ago. Waking up in the morning and off for a walk down to the beach in pouring rain, decided on breakfast instead. Following breaky was a touristy drive around Bondi, followed by a walk around the city, and then off to the airport and heading to New Zealand. Or so we thought… Upon checking in at 6:30 for a 7:05 flight that we thought was at 9:05, the agent told us that she needed to see our return flights from New Zealand to board. Of course neither one of us had this info with us, so after running to the internet café to print it on the slowest computers on earth, we missed our flight. The Angel that worked at the Airline office helped us out and got us on a flight to New Zealand the next day at 4, but now we had a layover in Brisbane. I must stop to make note here that when I say angel, this woman was truly nothing short of an angel. Absolutely beautiful, so nice, down to earth, sexy accent, and went out of her way to take care of us. I think Trev and I fell in love with her twelve times just listening to her talk. Anyway, back on track we got a hotel, slept, and took our new flight to New Zealand. To continue with our luck so far, our flight to Brisbane was delayed and had to run through the international airport to board as the plane was about to leave. Made it, but barely! Arriving in Christchurch at 1:00am, we cleared customs and took a taxi to our cabin that was booked the night before. I sat in the taxi and counted as the meter ran up. Not exaggerating here, it literally cost twenty cents every three seconds that we were in the cab. Twenty dollars for a five minute fare! We got into our cabin, which only had one full size bed with no sheets. We poured a cocktail, played some cards, then crawled into our sleeping bags, and off to sleep. In the morning we decided to stay in the main town closer to the train station. Off to the Excelsior Backpackers Hostel. An over 100 year old building that was awesome. We got a private room, dropped the bags and were off to see the town. As we came into the town square there was a band playing, and people all around just lounging, eating, and playing human size chess. Only in New Zealand for a few hours, and already loving it. We went to the visitor center booked our train to Greymouth, bus to Franz Josef, hostel for two nights, and then bus to Wanaka. We did a 5km walk around the town that ended at an awesome brewery, The Dux de Lux. Which also had the best beer price we had found, $22 for a pitcher. After a pitcher, we got more groceries and headed back to the hostel. It was weird walking back from the store at 9:30pm and the sun still hadn’t set. We grabbed our cards, went to the rooftop common area, and sat down to relax. We didn’t get but three plays into our game of rummie, before we were being offered Green Lip Mussels, bigger than I have ever seen, fresh out of the water and hot off the grill! Delicious.











We made friends with some other backpackers and spent the next four and a half hours talking in different languages, sharing stories, and all to the soundtrack of the Spanish guy playing the guitar. This was exactly what I needed. Brings me to now. Cruising the west coast of New Zealand in a bus after the four hour winding mountain train, excitied to reach our next destination… Franz Josef Glacier. This should be fun.